So here's my first pair of climbing shoes ever, purchased in 2002 with the help of Nick. Well, technically they were my second pair, but the first pair that I "grew" into. Let's not talk about the first pair.Model : Five Ten Rock Socks Slipper (discontinued sometime around 2003 and impossible to find in new condition).
So, after tons of bouldering for a hard 6 months, the edges became rounded and after 6 years of being stored, the glue gave way and peeled from the back.
Sent them in to Rock & Resole in Colorado for a resole...and well, it's OK...not entirely great but still. Here's the review.
Left pair: Neat, straight forward and almost invisible new toecap.
Right pair: Pretty much the same.
Heel cup: Here's where it sucks. Rock & Resole apparently won't do a FULL resole, and they tell me this after the shoe is delivered. I mentioned delamination of the original sole and the "tech" claims the rubber generally doesn't stick well to the "fabric" of the shoe. Well, clearly the rubber sole was glued to the rubber cup around the heel. They lose points for lying. They also lose points because I'm one picky a-hole. Check out the PATCH work on the right pair. It could have just been glued back down, but nooooooo.....they had to add that huge "goop" to keep the halves of the soles "tied".
Soles: For the resoled "half" which they did do, I switched to Onyx rubber. Stickier than the original C4 rubber. The rubber was ground down pretty well, the seams where they meet are pretty hard to see. Basically, it's a hybrid of Onyx and C4 on the bottom soles. Pretty neat.
Fortunately, the ugly patch on the back doesn't ruin the shoe. For a full resole, in the near future I would probably send it to the Rubber Room , and write a review about it then. We'll see. The overall cost? $50.00. Considering it's a special pair, it was worth it. Technical shoes cost over $120.00. It was worth it, plus it's a little more snug now.
Soles: For the resoled "half" which they did do, I switched to Onyx rubber. Stickier than the original C4 rubber. The rubber was ground down pretty well, the seams where they meet are pretty hard to see. Basically, it's a hybrid of Onyx and C4 on the bottom soles. Pretty neat.
Fortunately, the ugly patch on the back doesn't ruin the shoe. For a full resole, in the near future I would probably send it to the Rubber Room , and write a review about it then. We'll see. The overall cost? $50.00. Considering it's a special pair, it was worth it. Technical shoes cost over $120.00. It was worth it, plus it's a little more snug now.
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